Feeling a bit strange after a while in one place, I luckily got to meet back up with Sanya who has been travelling the north of Colombia and we decided to support each other to finally leave Medellín. We both had a blast here but knew that there is more of Colombia to discover and super excited to do it together.

We met at the bus station and booked a bus to Jardín. A beautiful little pueblo to begin our journey through the famous Colombian coffee region, known as the coffee triangle. The 3 hour bus journey turned into 6.5 hours, the reason still unknown to us. Arriving sleepy and hungry at 1am we found a street food stall still open and then luckily were able to check into our hostel. Quiet as can be, we flopped into bed trying hard not to wake anyone.

We had a relaxed morning with a good coffee and hostel breakfast and although the weather looked a bit dismal we decided to go on a small hike to Cascadas La Escalera. We went prepared for rain and enjoyed being out in the nature. It was quite a spectacular walk starting through small streets, beautiful gardens, rugged fincas growing all types of fruits and birds and animals along the way.

After about 1.5 hours and just as it started to rain a lot we reached the waterfalls, we got some nice photos and then as the rain got heavier and heavier we got going back down the hill.

We made it down the bottom of the hill almost soaked through and decided to take a break at a little shack for a fresh orange juice, super sweet and delicious. On talking with the guy he advised us of an alternate route back to the town that would take in some gorgeous views and walking through the coffee plantations.

We took a couple of wrong turns but arrived at a nice cafe just as the sun was coming out. We took off our jackets and let our skin be warmed by the sun and enjoyed a coffee and croissant as we gazed out over Jardín and the coffee fincas. Magical!

Warm and full we carried on our walk down the ridge, exploring through either the coffee plants or the banana plants or the big plants. Such a gorgeous, lush, green region.

We arrived back into town to a lively main square where the weather had completely cleared and people were out enjoying the warm sun. A chaotic array of tables and chairs sprawled out into the square. On looking and watching, it actually became less chaotic as each cafe had their own colour to distinguish which patrons were to be served by which cafe.

We decided on the red table and chair cafe and enjoyed another local tinto.

The next day we explored the tiny town a bit, getting lost and absorbed in the colourful colonial buildings and cute fluffy window decorations.

We also went on this cable car thing called la Garrucha, it is homemade, originally by a local farmer who built it to bring stuff from his farm to the town. Being homemade didn’t sing ‘safe’ but locals now use it regularly to get across the valley so that gave us a little bit of reassurance.

Next up we booked our bus to Salento. We arrived in the morning to be told this is our bus. Normally we have seen these ‘chiva’ buses riding around town with really loud music and people drinking and having a party. Not what we expected to take the 3 hour journey into the hills to Salento in.

Anyhow on we get, and within about 30 minutes we are cruising along with the wind and rain lashing at the sides. Luckily we had sat on the far left side that was closed in so had a bit of shelter.

After about 2 hours we take a break where we could stretch our legs and take a local coffee. A girl also let us try some fresh cheese which was delicious.

Another hour on we changed buses for the last haul to Salento.  Salento is probably the most touristy town in the coffee triangle so we didn’t plan to stay here too long. Our hostel called Estrella sin Fronteras was down a long dirt path and had a really rural feel with chickens everywhere and calves mooing and we luckily had this little cabaña to ourselves.

Next day was an early start with a hike to the famous Cocora Valley. To get to the surrounding areas of Salento you travel in these jeeps called Willys. You just jump in the back, tell the driver where you want and once full off you go.

It was a really beautiful trek through gorgeous farmland, dense jungle and lots of rickety bridges to cross the rivers. On the way you could stop off at La Casa de los Colibris (the hummingbird house). The birds flit in and out so quick but so nice to see them up close. With entry to the house you got a hot chocolate with fresh cheese. You put the cheese inside the chocolate and let it soften and melt. It doesn’t completely melt but just enough to be warm and soft. Eat the cheese then drink the chocolate. Muy rico!!

These wax palms are the tallest palms in the world and were really impressive to sit and gaze up and out into the valley at.

After spending the next morning exploring the little town we then caught a willy to Filandia. But not before first trying the most popular restaurant with backpackers called Brunch, owned by an American in which the portion sizes reflect. I had a huge breakfast burrito, it was filled with fried potatoes, beans, cheese, tomatoes, avocado and more and I couldn’t even finish it. But then also decided to order a peanut butter and chocolate brownie served with ice cream and caramel. I felt sick. Not our wisest decision to gorge ourselves right before getting in the back of a willy onwards to Filandia.

I loved Filandia the most of the 3 little pueblos we visited in this region. It was a little less touristy, smaller and our hostel was so homely with lovely selection of teas available all day, lots of books and instruments to play. Of course I don’t play any …yet.

We relaxed here for a few days before going on a nice hike to the double waterfalls. We didn’t see anyone else on the hike and had it all to ourselves. We took a little lunch and had a picnic and enjoyed the stillness.

We made it back in time to watch a beautiful sunset from a nice bar and then had our first experience of Tejo – the native sport of Colombia. We walked through the bar, past the locals playing pool and out the back through a dark door that then opened up into a rugged alley. No wonder we hadn’t been able to find anyone playing just by looking in from the street. This game involves throwing a metal disc at a clay target. On the target is a metal ring that is lined with small packets of gunpowder. Hit these and you’ll be met with a loud explosion and smoke. You score different points depending where you land, the rest of the rules were lost on me. We watched the locals play for a bit who were all very good. Then we had our own turn and didn’t keep score but just tried to hit the gunpowder as many times as possible.

We were slowly making our way further south and next stop was Popayán. We were on the bus maybe 10 minutes when I realised I left my phone charging in the hostel. So I jumped off with my backpack and told Sanya I’d meet her there, a stressful moment as I wasn’t sure the bus was going to stop. I walked back to fetch it and luckily I hadn’t paid the first bus yet and the next bus was only in 30 minutes.

A stark contrast to the colourful towns so far visited throughout Colombia. Popayán is more commonly known as the White City.

We did a free walking tour and met Apolline (France) who will feature a lot in my upcoming posts. We also had the cheapest set menu ever, for 5500 pesos ($2.50) we could order 7 different things of the whiteboard menu. We went back the next day before leaving to Ipiales – the border town for Colombia to Ecuador.

So joining forces with Apolline we arrived in Ipiales 11 hours later and booked into a cheap hotel as there were no hostels. The next day we only had plans to visit this crazy beautiful church called El Santuario de Las Lajas and then finally leave Colombia by crossing into Ecuador.

The border had been closed on and off over the last week and we had really hoped we had timed it ok as didn’t want to stay another night in Ipiales and had mentally prepared to say goodbye to Colombia. All was good at the border with hardly any lines and breezed through in about 45 minutes. Until it was Sanya’s turn and unfortunately she had some issues with her visa extension. The office wouldn’t open for another few hours so we waited, had another final Colombian meal and then another couple of hours later we were finally crossing the bridge into Ecuador.