I took a bus from Palomino to Riohacha  which is the jumping off point to reach the vast desolate region of La Guajira. The most northern region of Colombia and most northern point of all of South America. It borders Venezuela and is characterised by desert landscapes, sweeping sand dunes, remote ranches and fishing villages of the indigenous Wayuu people.

I knew it would be a challenging adventure but certain the rewards would be worth it. I arrived at a small hostel in Riohacha and was the only one staying there. Not a good start to try and team up with other travellers for a tour north. Jeep tours would only run with a minimum of 4 people. I welcomed the quiet environment to recover from the partying in Palomino and hoped that some more people would arrive in the next few days.

Exploring Riohacha there was a nice beach, lots of fresh juice stands with exotic fruits, kids climbing coconut trees and more incredible sunsets. The rest of the town I saw was pretty dirty, smelly, noisy and didn’t see any other tourists which is actually a nice change.

Just as I was researching how to get further north by myself without the tour the receptionist at the hostel said there were 2 couples arriving the next day that were keen to go, so I excitedly paid my deposit and relaxed for the rest of the day.

The next day we piled into a 4×4 jeep and were on our way to Cabo de La Vela where we would spend our first night. First stop was the Manaure Salt Flats which are the largest working salt mines in Colombia. A lady showed us around and explained the process which was all very interesting, the parts of her Spanish that I could understand.

Carrying on we reached Cuatro Vias which would be the last point to get gas, black-market Venezuelan gas at that. Was good to stretch the legs and watch the everyday goings on of this busy intersection.

From here the landscapes changed dramatically as we drove through. Arriving in Cabo, it was more a paradise than I had anticipated with the stark contrasts of the blue sky, green/blue water and white sands. This place is famous for kite surfing and was enjoyable to watch as we enjoyed our lunch of fish, rice, plantains.

We dropped our bags at Hospedaje El Monaco where we would spend the night and then got back into the car to further explore the area. First stop El Pilón de Azúcar, a steep hill with amazing coastal views.

Then onward to a lighthouse that would have a good sunset but unfortunately a strong haze clouded the horizon. We did meet a nice local kid who was obsessed with playing hand slap games. He was also selling some nice bracelets and I couldn’t help myself but to buy 1 or 2 from him.

Back at the hostel it was fried fish for dinner and an early night in the hammocks as we needed to be up at 6am the next day for the long leg to Punta Gallinas – the northernmost point of mainland South America. The landscapes changed dramatically from dry cracked earth, cactus filled deserts and sweeping sand dunes straight into the sea.

 

Sometimes we wouldn’t see anyone for a long while then we would come into a small inhabited area where we couldn’t pass until we had paid our ‘candy tax.’ Kids would hold a piece of rope or a stick or a bike chain across our cars path so we couldn’t pass until we handed out sweets, coffee, bread. Supposedly it started off as a bit of joke with the kids and as times got harder the adults cottoned on that they could actually get quite a lot of food from the tourists that were coming through their lands. Sometimes there would be 8-10 barriers in a row where the driver would hand out 1 or 2 things to their outstretched hands.

Making it through, it is truly heart wrenching when looking at their faces and the harsh conditions they are living in. I wished we could have been handing out water and fresh fruit and vegetables.

We make it to Punta Gallinas and take some quick snaps before venturing back towards our accommodation and dinner for the night. Tired from the long journey and the hot sun we are thankful and grateful for a bucket shower and a hot meal.

The next morning we wake for a quick breakfast and the long journey back to Riohacha.